We pass another sign that says ‘Waltzing Matilda country’ with side-view silhouette of the wandering swagman. Either this guy covered some serious miles or most new Australians were homeless wanderers with bag on a stick, corks on the hat brim and kickin’ up dust with their itinerant boots as they headed toward the rumour of a job shearing or clearing.
During the heady days of imperialism, life was cheap and so were wages. Cheap enough to refer to as ‘slave labour’. When the white military and landowners elbowed their way into Australia they were blessed with an almost endless supply of complimentary convict workers. Even after criminal transportation ended, the idea of fair treatment for workers seemed a load of balderdash – except to the workers themselves. Various solidarities formed from the ‘screw this’ attitude and strikes/scuffles ensued. Mine strikes, stockade battles etc.
Barcaldine (QLD), location of the Tree of Knowledge Monument. Built on the location of the original tree that ‘silently witnessed’ the struggle between shearers and pastoralists for better conditions in 1891. Arrests were made and subsequently these underpaid and maltreated troublemakers became champions of the ideals that formed the Union Movement and the Labor Party. What ever your political leanings might be – nobody likes having their nose rubbed in it by the boss.
12 hours through sporadic rainfall, pothole dodging and oncoming road trains we hit Dalby. Manu books 3 rooms pub accommodation over the phone about an hour out of town. The last time such a manoeuvre will be employed on this journey: The pub must be observed in person before reservations are made. Our rooms on the first floor resembled early 1970’s backstage greenrooms but with three beds each and the oddest collections of mismatched furniture. My room had a fridge slightly bigger than the Brady Bunch’s, an outdoor glass table and a 70’s stereo system shelf that held the tea-making facilities. All the beds linen looked like patchwork quilts made from every item of clothing from ‘Woodstock’.
My prized chameleon and tie-dye t-shirt collection disappeared forever...
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